So that’s the big deal? Getting ready to bottle a particular wine on a particular day at a particular time is not dissimilar to landing arriving at a destination 1000 miles away at exactly the time you calculated. It seldom happens – easily. Scheduling multiple bottling is nerve racking, and definitely cause for additional wine consumption!

The first task is scheduling bottling dates. Usually that depends on the wine, but a date is a date, a particular wine notwithstanding.. Once we – the winery where our, and others wines, are made – establish that, we work backwards. If there is a bottling truck involved that means scheduling it on that day, and that ain’t easy, as these trucks are in great demand. Once the truck is scheduled, the winery is committed to being ready on that day.

So what’s the big deal about getting ready?  That depends on how organized the person in charge of the bottling is. Here si a list of some of the ingredients that go into a successful bottling:

Securing a date for the bottling truck or bottling line

Assuring that the proper electrical outlets are available for the truck – usually a 60 amp service with an emergency shutoff.

Assuring that there is an adequate water supply for the truck

Preparing the wines so that they are bottle ready, and at the correct temperature for bottling.

Scheduling delivery of bottles, corks, foils so that they are at the winery well before the date the truck arrives.

Purchasing plastic wrap, and tape to seal the cases then secure the new cases of wine on the pallets

Hiring a bottling crew, preferably people who have done this before.

Sanitizing anything that will touch the wine in the bottling process.

Assuring that adequate nitrogen, or other inert gas is available in the proper quantity to gal each bottle.

Filling all propane tanks that will be needed to assure that the forklift operates throughout the bottling day.

Determine “fill”  levels to assure that each bottle has the milliliters stipulated on the bottles, etc.

Determining exactly where the wine owner wants the labels placed on the bottles – front and back.

Prior to all of this, labels must be designed and printed, then approved by the federal government. Labels are useless until approved, [See below.] The labels are most time sensitive because, except for certain circumstances, no one can bottle in a bonded winery unless the Tax & Trade Bureau (TTB) approves a “Certificate of Label Approval” or COLA. Given that the TTB is a government agency, plenty of lead time is necessary. Without the COLA, bottling is not going to happen, if a winery is playing by the rules. Once that’s done, what’s next?

Secure Bottles. What shape, what color and from whom? Who negotiates that? The winery, the client, or a committee may each be chosen to do that, especially if a larger order. Client billing information needs to be provided to the bottle manufacturer. Once all this is done, delivery dated need to be established and guaranteed.

What’s next? Foils (Some refer to these little guys as Capsules) must be chosen. What type and color: Tin, Poly-laminate, or Aluminum? Tin foils are going for about $.23/foil and Poly-Laminate for $.06/foil – a big difference when purchasing 30,000 or more foils. We request samples from each company. Once the foils are in hand, and the fit and finish rated, each client was given a deadline by which they need to choose a foil, commit to a purchase of same and guarantee that they are delivered to the winery well before bottling.

Corks: The same process as obtaining foils is followed.

Throughout all of the above, the days are clicking off the calendar. Each lost day brings us closer to the bottling date. Sometimes it seems like we will never finish on time, but each year we do, and often wonder how!

What strikes me as interesting in all of this is that this service, and the work related to it, are all done for something that is tossed in the trash with little or no thought given to how much effort was expended getting all of this ready. Sort of like a lot of other parts of life…

Ingredients

Preparing the Sauce

Add the two tablespoons of butter or margarine to an oven proof glass bowl. Cover with a paper towel, and microwave on high for one-two minutes. [Exact time depends upon the power of your oven] Add two tablespoons of flour,  mix  well and try to get it as smooth as possible, then heat covered on high in the microwave for 1 minute.

Add 1/2 cup of chicken stock and stir to break up lumps. Microwave on high for 1-2 minutes. Check after half of the time has transpired minutes to see if it needs to be stirred.  If so, stir and microwave for another minute.  Add 1/2 cup of milk, stir and microwave for a minute. If you have a hand blender, that can use  rather than a whisk.

Add another half cup of chicken or vegetable stock, and heat on high for 2-3 minutes, checking that the mixture does not over flow the bowl. If it is about to overflow, reduce the power to 70% and continue.   After this time the béchamel should be about as thick as heavy cream. If too thick adjust with chicken broth or water, and cook until creamy, usually about 2-3 minutes. If too thin cook for another 4 minutes. If still too thin, add a tablespoon of flour dissolved in 1/3 cup of stock. Cook another 2-3 minutes until creamy.

At this point the béchamel can be seasoned in a number of ways. Add salt to taste, and 1/8 Tsp of black or white pepper. Alternatively, add 1/4 Tsp of ground nutmeg. (Careful, the white pepper has a strong flavor) Depending upon the recipe, chopped garlic or chopped onions can be added during the last few minutes of cooking.  Cover the béchamel and set aside. If it thickens too much, add milk, water or chicken stock until it is the consistency of a heavy cream.

Use as you would a bechamel made in the more traditional stove top method.

This recipe calls for Béchamel sauce. We have modified a recipe on one of Barbara Kafka’s books that contains far less fat, and tastes just as good as Béchamel made on the stove top. In fact, a well known chef in our hometown joined us for dinner at our home and did not know that the sauce was made in the microwave.   So you have a choice, make the sauce the standard stove top way, or click here or below for the microwave version.  We have made our sauce this way for the past 12 years or so, and never on the stove. It’s easy and pretty foolproof.

Ingredients

Preparation

Bring a 2 quart pot of water to a boil, then add the broccoli raab to it.  Salt and cook for 5 minutes, then drain.  As soon as the broccoli raab is cool, squeeze most of the water from it, and then chop it coarsely.  Set aside.

Bring eight quarts of water to a boil for the pasta.

While the raab is cooking sauté the sausage in about 4 tablespoons of  olive oil.  Cook until browned on all sides – about 6 minutes.  Add the broccoli raab to the pan and stir, then continue cooking over medium heat.  If necessary, add a small amount of water t keep the ingredients from burning. Once the sausages are cooked, remove from the pan and cut each sausage into 4-5 pieces.

By now,  the water for the pasta should be boiling.  Cook the ziti (or rigatoni) until very al dente, then drain and set aside.

Add the broccoli raab the sausage, the tomatoes, the parsley and all of the cheeses to a large mixing bowl.  Mix thoroughly.    Add the pasta to the bowl and mix again, then add the béchamel sauce, if using.  If not using the béchamel, add  1/4 cup of extra virgin olive oil and 3 additional chopped tomatoes.  Mix to assure that all ingredients are well amalgamated.

At this point the mixture should be the consistency of loose cottage cheese.  Add salt and pepper to taste, stir and let sit for 15 minutes.  After this time, bake at 350 for 35 minutes, then turn the oven temperature to 425 degrees and bake for an additional 15 minutes. Remove from the oven and let rest for 10 minutes before serving.

This casserole demands a Syrah. We favor our 2009 Syrah/Grenache blend. It will make this dish even better!

2009 Syrah

This  De Angelis Wine was bottled in mid-February of 2011. A limited release occurred in August 2011. We decided to release the wine to the general public when we launch our new web site – This one! This is a 13.9% alcohol wine, and again brings flavor, balance, and finish to a this varietal.Some of the complexity is due to the addition of a small amount (10.5%) of Grenache. This blend has been offered since being originally introduced into our Syrahs in 2007.  Pair this with any beef, lamb or veal dish, as well as with flavorful pasta dishes.

We are very proud of this wine, and even more proud that we bring it to you at such a reasonable price point.

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Price: $25.87

Ingredients for the Filling

Preparation of the Filling

Boil one dozen eggs until they are hard cooked. Set aside to cool.

Cut and mix all of the ingredients. Crack 2 dozen fresh eggs into the mixture, then add the ricotta cheese. Add half the milk and mix well.  If the filling is too stiff, add more milk until the consistency is that of whipped heavy cream. Mix well. Peel, and slice 1/2 the hard cooked eggs, and mix into the filling.  Add salt and pepper to taste. Set the mixture aside and proceed to the next step.

Ingredients for the Dough

Preparation of the Dough

Make a well in the flour. Break the eggs in a bowl and whip.  Add whipped eggs, pepper and oil to the flour. Mix well, adding just enough cold water to hold it together. Roll out after the dough is soft and pliable, but not sticky. Separate the dough, and put half into an oiled 9 X 14 inch oven proof spring form pan, or casserole of similar size. Fill the pan with mixture until the filling is about half way from the top of the pan sides. Place a hard boiled egg – there are half left – on top of the filling, then gently press the egg into the filling.  Cover the eggs with the remaining filling then place the second sheet of rolled out dough on top. Prick holes in the top crust. Glaze with the margarine or butter, and bake at 375°- 400° F until light brown, approximately 1 to 1 1/2 hours. (If the crust begins to brown too early, cover the pan with aluminum foil and continue to bake)

While the pie can be served hot or warm as an appetizer or side dish, it is best when cool. I remember cutting pieces all through the first day it was made, and then for the next few days after that.  It never lasted very long in our house.

We think this Torta is great with a 2009 De Angelis Wines Syrah!

 2009 Syrah

This  De Angelis Wine was bottled in mid-February of 2011. A limited release occurred in August 2011. We decided to release the wine to the general public when we launch our new web site – This one! This is a 13.9% alcohol wine, and again brings flavor, balance, and finish to a this varietal.Some of the complexity is due to the addition of a small amount (10.5%) of Grenache. This blend has been offered since being originally introduced into our Syrahs in 2007.

We are very proud of this wine, and even more proud that we bring it to you at such a reasonable price point.

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This is an easy appetizer to make, and is especially good when all you have in the larder is a can of tuna, a tomato, some celery, an onion, and a loaf of Italian bread. This Crostini can also be made with fresh tuna. That option requires an extra step which is detailed in the recipe below, but in our opinion is worth the extra work!.

Ingredients

Preparation (Canned Tuna)

Preheat the oven to 475 degrees Fahrenheit, if using your oven to toast the bread

Blend the tuna, mayonnaise, olive oil and lemon juice together on high speed using either a processor or a hand blender. Add the remaining ingredients – except the bread, and mix thoroughly by hand. Place resultant mixture in the refrigerator for 15 minutes.

At the end of this time, toast 4 slices of Italian Bread on both sides in a very hot (475 degree) oven, or in the broiler. Rub the side upon which the tuna mixture will be placed with a peeled garlic clove (optional). Heap the tuna mixture on the toast, add two or three tomato slices to each crostini, and place under the broiler for 2-4 minutes. Serve warm.

Preparation (Fresh Tuna)

Cooking times for the tuna assume a piece of tuna about 1.5 inches thick. Wrap the tuna in aluminum foil. Place in a non-stick fry pan and turn the heat to medium high. Cook for two minutes on one side, turn the packet over and cook again for two minutes. [If the tuna is less than 1.5 inches thick, cook for 1.5 minutes on each side.]  When cooking is finished, unwrap the tuna immediately, and chop coarsely.  Mix all ingredients by hand – do not use a processor. Place resultant mixture in the refrigerator for 15 minutes.  Continue making the crostini as described above.

Doing the math is simple. Here is what’s needed. State A developed new legislation that allows out of state wineries to ship to their state. Once that happens, the Alcohol and Beverage control entity of that state determines how much a new license will cost to ship wine into the state. That is easy to imagine as each license represents a fee – an annual fee.

Next my fellow Americans is the tax on the wine that is shipped into the states. The more wine shipped, the more taxes garnered. This soon adds up to black rather than red ink, and the race is on, how much wine can we “import” to our state, and how much tax can we gather?  Short answer – a lot.

In addition to the growing number of states that have seen the green light of money, Maryland joined the 21st century last July, So far in 2012 New Mexico and New Jersey have approved DTC shipping. Funnily enough, a license in NM will cost $50/annum while one in NJ will cost $938/annum. Why a license in NJ costs almost 19 times one in NM is anybodies guess – stronger unions we imagine. One way to address this is to have a single Federal license that allows shipping anywhere to any person 21 years or older. Establish one set of Federal regulations, one set of forms, and one compliance agency – TTB?  We posit that to do so will result in enormous savings for everyone who enjoys wine, and more state revenue.

All of this is nonsense of course, since each state has their own regulations, own licensing forms, own reporting mechanism, and own distributor lobbyist organization in the state.To actually ship to each state requires a mountain of paperwork, as well as a knowledge of each states regs. All of this add up to one important thing – the consumer and the small winery get screwed!  So what’s new…..?

Ingredients

Procedure

Dissolve the yeast in 1/4 cup water and allow it to stand for approximately 5-10 minutes. Combine the flour (3 3/4 cups), malt (1/2 teaspoon), and salt (1 1/2 teaspoons).  Place the flour mixture on the work surface (or in a large bowl), and make a well in the center.  Gradually add the dissolved yeast, and additional water (1 1/4 cup plus 1 tablespoons), mixing well. Continue to mix until the dough begins to hold together.  Knead the dough to a soft consistency.  Continue to knead until the dough is smooth and elastic.  The dough will feel sticky.

Place the dough in a lightly floured bowl, cover it with a cotton towel, and allow it to rise at room temperature until doubled, about 30 – 40  minutes.

Turn the risen dough onto a flour dusted work surface. Divide it into two portions. Pat each portion into a rectangle approximately 4 by 8 inches long and dust each portion with flour. Dust a piece of canvas (untreated, 100% cotton) or a proofing board (lumber core plywood) with flour. Transfer the dough to the floured canvas or proofing board, and cover it with a cotton towel. Allow it to proof at room temperature for 30 – 35 minutes. 

Carefully lift each portion of dough by the ends, gently pulling and stretching them until they are 12-14 inches long, and return them to the floured canvas or proofing board. Cover the dough with a cotton towel and allow it to rise for an additional 40 – 50 minutes.

As the dough is rising, place a baking stone in the oven and set the temperature to 500 F. Allow the oven to heat for 30 minutes.

Turn each portion of dough onto a lightly floured sheet of parchment paper, lengthening it slightly. Slide a baker’s peel beneath the parchment paper. Lower the oven temperature to 425 F. Slide the parchment paper from the peel onto the baking stone.  Introduce steam into the oven during the first 10 minutes of baking.  Allow the dough to bake until it is a deep golden color (approximately 10 more minutes).

Remove the loaves from the oven and allow to cool on a wire rack.

It seems to us that many folks do nothing until they have read a review of whatever it is that they are considering either buying, using or tasting. This includes wine, food, cars, restaurants, trade people, movies, etc.  It is easy to see why reviews of trade people can be very useful, as can ratings of cars when it comes to performance and reliability.  As far as food and wine go, we have a lot of difficulty understanding why a professional reviewer’s, or critic’s, taste buds are better than anyone else’s. Is it really necessary to log onto Robert Parker, Wine Enthusiast, Food & Wine or any publication before you try a wine, or a recipe?  Do those who post on sites like Yelp know what you would enjoy more than you do, or are they simply your neighbors offering an opinion?  We believe the latter.

A person pretty much knows what tastes good, or where the service is best. Certainly, it may be easier and quicker to read a review, and then take a chance on a restaurant, or a wine. The operative word here is “easier”. Missing when one is unwilling to try anything before it is essentially pre-approved is the element of risk – however minor – of making a choice all by oneself, and in fact trusting oneself. (If we don’t watch out, there may come a day when we cannot choose a mate before some expert does the pairing!) Perhaps one question which needs to be asked is: Would we know if something is good or bad – all by ourselves, or  Is it only possible to like, or dislike, something in group mode?  Another is: “What is the objective of a review of anything? Is it informational, a subjective opinion, or is it it directive, i.e. Go there! Eat that. Drink this!

Is it time to get away from the professional reviewer or critic, and trust oneself, one’s friends, or some of the “people’s ratings” available on so many web sites.  After all, any review – good or bad – is simply an opinion. For example, we like eating rabbit. You may not. If we write a review about a great rabbit dish we had at Joe’s Rabbit Restaurant, will that persuade you to go there, and eat rabbit?  Probably not, nor should it. On the other hand if you like rabbit, you may try Joe’s. That choice would be made by you. All we did was provide information about a restaurant of which you may have been unaware.

Ditto for wines and spirits. For instance we do not happen to enjoy a number of wines. We found that out by trying them, and deciding that no matter what a reviewer said, we don’t like them, and probably never will.  Sometimes we do not not finish a wine we purchase.  We may simply not enjoy it, and disagree with the judges who may, or may not, have rated this wine highly.  Once we taste the wine, our noses and taste buds help us decide whether or not it met our expectations.

By now, someone reading this article, may say – “Aha, De Angelis Wines got a bad professional review of their wines, and are upset”. Wrong. We do not send our wines to be graded by an expert. We know when they are good, and we know when they can be better.  Some folks have rated our wines on web sites like Cellar Tracker.  They are not the expert critic, nor are they reviewers.  They are just plain folks. Like some of you, they may see a new, small winery, domestic or foreign, and take a chance on buying, then trying, wines of which they were previously unaware.

So what’s the point of this article?  Be your own critic. Take a risk, and try new things before or after you read a review. Trust yourself because you have the best equipment that tells you whether or not you like something – Your eyes, ears, nose and taste buds.

So who died and left you Boss? You decide.

Ciabatta has become a widely favored bread in the United States. The literal meaning of ciabatta in Italian is slipper, which identifies its shape. It is difficult to determine the region in Italy where ciabatta was first created. “Profumo di Pane” by Erika Pignatti indicates that ciabatta probably originated in Trentino, even though the breads of the region are predominately rye and whole wheat varieties. She also states that it has become popular and is produced outside of Trentino today. In “The Italian Baker”, Carol Field identifies ciabatta as a slipper shaped bread from Lake Como.The following insight is offered in the introduction to her text:“Unlike the French, who make numerous regional breads and sweets according to quantified recipes and codified traditions, Italian bakers are forever experimenting and dreaming up new interpretations. If forty bakers at Lake Como are making ciabatta, you can be sure there will be forty slightly different tastes”. This actuality has added to the confusion regarding the origins of ciabatta. It is possible that a baker from Trentino moved to the Lake Como region and introduced the bread there. This issue is further complicated by the fact that a proclamation exists which declares that Padua (located in the Veneto region) is the birthplace of ciabatta.

Francesco Favaron of Pan Technology maintains that he personally invented this bread. Pan Technology is a private school devoted to bread, pizza, and pastry, that is located in the Veneto region of Italy. Mr. Favaron informed one of the owners of this site that he developed ciabatta in the 1960′s by experimenting for two years when working in the city of Milan. The manual produced by Pan Technology includes 1028 formulae for Italian regional breads, one of which, it is claimed, is the “original” ciabatta formula. The manual also includes four additional variations. And on it goes…

At least one type of ciabatta can be found in nearly every region of Italy. The classic ciabatta from the area around Lake Como, has a crisp crust, a somewhat soft, porous texture, and is light to the touch. The ciabatta that is found in Tuscany, Umbria, and The Marche varies from bread that has a firm crust and dense crumb, to bread that has a crisper crust, and more open texture.  

Formulae exist that incorporate a Direct, or Indirect Method in their procedures. Of those  which proceed according to an Indirect Method, some call for a biga, others for a poolish, and still others for lievito naturale (natural leavening). There are many variations of ciabatta. When made with whole wheat flour, and is  known as ciabatta Integrale. In Rome, it can be seasoned with olive oil, salt and marjoram. When milk is added to the dough, it becomes ciabatta latte.

In an effort to emphasize the fact that ciabatta refers to a shape, rather than one specific type of bread found in Italy today, we will post the following five recipes: