Yes, there are conditions in the vineyard where, for a number of reasons, the fruit is not ripe, and it is necessary to let the fruit hang for a bit more time. The key word here is “bit”, and not a number of bits that add up to weeks. We make wine with fruit from a number of hot areas. One day it is a mere 88 degrees F, and the next it is 106 degrees F. In general, the fruit is physiologically ripe at about 24-25 Brix. For a number of reasons it is not picked, but left to hang on the vines. This allows the sugars to rise: Sometimes to 28-30 Brix, but does little to improve the fruit. It does cause higher sugar levels, and changes in the acid balance of the fruit, and subsequent must. Letting fruit hang until it’s “ripe”, i.e. overripe, is in our opinion, often the fault of the vineyard manager who is not paying attention, or the winemaker who is also not paying attention. Well, they may be paying attention, but to something other than making a wine with reasonable alcohol levels. It is obvious that regardless of the above, and in spite of the winemaker’s intentions, there are years when the weather works against both the grower and the winemaker, and nothing can be done, a priori, about the appropriate time to pick the fruit.

That said, local climate may cause rapid changes in fruit maturation, and winemakers and vineyard managers need to pay strict attention to the fruit – perhaps much more so than in more temperate climates. (Although there are different problems in temperate climates for sure!) Temperature variations – heat spells, followed by cooler days and nights, followed again by hot days are not unusual on the California Central Coast. Because of these variations, the fruit seems ripe based on pH, TA, and Brix data. Unfortunately, fruit may be deemed ripe based on these parameters when it is NOT ripe, and visa versa. Most winemakers know that relying only on the chemistry does not necessarily indicate that the time to pick is NOW. For instance, some samples brought to our laboratory have green seeds, skins that are tough, and juice that tastes green. This fruit is not ripe. What are solutions to this ripeness issue?

Letting the fruit hang longer is one. This allows the vine to concentrate the sugars, causes the acidity to decrease lower to values that approach 4.0. The resultant fruit, when picked, often jammy or stewed! These have been deemed non-issues by some winemakers, especially those who want to make high alcohol wines. The reason is that each molecule of sugar gives rise to about 2 molecules of alcohol plus a great deal of carbon dioxide. Thus, higher sugars equal higher alcohol. [It’s really a bit more complicated than this, but this article is not meant to be a course in wine chemistry.] How to deal with high Brix, low acidity wines made from overripe fruit is an issue. One thing that has become fairly prevalent is to look to enhanced technology to resolve problems of under ripe or overripe fruit. These technologies vary from simple addition of water, addition of acids like Tartaric and Malic acid, spinning the wines after fermentation is compete to remove alcohol – and a few other “things” – as well as the ever useful blending of wines. In our opinion, some wines have suffered as a result of these practices.

Is the use of these solutions noted above “wrong”? That’s not for me to say anymore than it is for me to say that genetic engineering is wrong, or that stem cell research may be problematic. What puzzles me is the practice of letting the fruit develop until it is no longer balanced, and then subjecting it to a variety of remedies that would not have to be used if the problem(s) were addressed in the field. To use a very crude analogy, it seems to me that these practices are not too different from those of a farmer who lets his or her truck run for a couple of hundreds of thousands miles, never takes it in for a service, and figures that it is easier to install a new engine rather than take the time to care for the truck along the way. Yes, that is one way to do it, but is it the best way? You decide and let me know, because I am stupid enough to service my old Ford every 3000-3500 miles!

NOTE: If baby peppers are not available, use red, and yellow and orange bell peppers, or whatever colors are available.  Some would say roasted peppers are done over a flame or under a broiler or on a grill. They would be correct. We roast them the lazy person’s way – in a hot oven.  So maybe we should call them Broasted peppers, or some other thing, but all in all they roast very nicely at 400 degrees Fahrenheit.

Ingredients

Preparation

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F.

Pour 1/2 the olive oil into an oven proof baking dish that is large enough to hold all the peppers in a single layer, and place them into the oven to roast.  Roasting time will vary with the size of the peppers, but 35-40 minutes is a good estimate of the actual time it will take to develop a slightly charred set of peppers.  Remove them from the oven when roasting is complete, and allow to cool in the pan.

When cool, remove the stem end, and cut the peppers longitudinally in half. Discard the seeds. If using baby peppers cut each half in half. If using larger peppers, peel them, cut them in half, and then cut each half into quarters.

Put a pot of water to boil for the pasta.

Put the peppers into a fry pan that will hold all the peppers and the garlic.  Add the rest of the olive oil and sauté the peppers and garlic for 8-10 minutes.  Sprinkle the flour (or Wondra) over the peppers while stirring with a fork or a spatula. Allow to cook for about 2-4 minutes then add the chicken stock. Bring to a simmer over a low heat.  While this is cooking, begin to cook the pasta. While the pasta is cooking, the sauce will begin to thicken. Turn off the heat, and add the prosciutto. Stir to incorporate the meat into the pepper mix.

As soon as the pasta is cooked al dente, add two tablespoons of the pasta water to the peppers mixture, drain the pasta, and  put the pasta back into its cooking pot. Add all the pepper and prosciutto mixture to the pot with the pasta, turn the heat onto medium high, and mix well while bringing the sauce to a boil.

Serve immediately garnished with generous helpings of freshly grated Parmesan cheese and the fresh parsley. Pair this with a De Angelis Wines 2007 Syrah!  (Any leftover pasta is a perfect ingredient for a great Fritatta!)

       2007 Syrah

The biggest addition to our wine making armamentarium this year was a fine basket press.  We used that rather than the pneumatic bladder press we had used for the past 5 years.  We lost the use of our bladder press, but a very kind, and wonderful client, offered us her basket press (A Serio-shown to the left) for use this year, as she needed it not. Just after we installed the press at the winery, a number of articles appeared in the wine literature extolling the benefits of a good basket press. That was quite serendipitous, and certainly added to our confidence level!  Many readers have seen either a small ratchet basket press used by many home winemakers, or a giant basket press used in the champagne industry, as well as in still wine production.  These great presses have been supplanted in many cases by large bladder presses. The pneumatic bladder press has become the favorite of many winemakers: It’s fast, usually needs only one person to prep and clean it, is automatic and does not rupture those who have to lift the basket press baskets.  Bladder presses are sort of “set it and forget it” presses.

Basket presses are more gentle, and seldom run the risk of over pressing the must, thus adding over pressed juice to the  basic free run that comes from the basket before any pressure is applied. Certainly free run comes from a bladder press too, but there is a tendency to later operate these pneumatic presses at higher pressure to obtain a greater yield. This can give rise to bitter tannins, and other phenols that can also be bitter.  Basket  presses are also slow, and not favored in a high production facility.

Are the basket presses easier to operate – not really? What is the reason we love it?  Simple. We feel that it can make better wines.  That statement is sure to result in grief for us, as many winemakers use bladder presses, and make fine wines. We have done that also. However one anecdotal comment – below – may be the best place to end this note.

A wine loving colleague was at the winery the other day. In tank we had our 2011 Syrah that was pressed 24 hours earlier. Her comment upon tasting said wine:  “This is better now than most wines I purchase that have aged, been bottled and sold in restaurants!”  My thought: Same vineyard, same fruit, same yeasts, same treatment,  different press! Enough said.

Now if we could only keep it!

Ingredients

Preparing the Sauce

Add 1/4 cup olive oil  and the onion to a large saute pan or flat bottomed, stove-top wok, and saute until the onion is translucent. Add the duck breasts whole and brown them over medium high heat.  Remove from the pan, let cool a bit and slice into 1/4 inch strips. Return them to the pan, and cook for 5 minutes in the garlicky olive oil.   Add the  tomatoes and the cream, lower the heat and cook for 10 minutes. Add the hot pepper flakes  at this time if using them. Season with salt and pepper to taste, cover and cook for an additional 20 minutes. Meanwhile heat the water for the pasta.

Preparing The Dish

When the pasta is very al dente, remove from the pan with a slotted spoon and add to the pan containing the duck sauce. Turn the heat to high and cook  for 2 minutes while stirring vigorously.  If the sauce has thickened too much, add a ladle full of the pasta water to the saute pan. Serve immediately topped with grated Parmesan cheese.  Try our 2007 Pinot Noir with this dish!

2007 Pinot Noir
This wine is a 14.35% alcohol, fruit forward wine, and offers a hint of oak, and a nice bit of spice. Fruit flavor such as cherries, and blackberries coupled to a great mouthfeel, and very soft tannins make this an easy to drink Pinot Noir.  It stands up to flavorful foods like veal, lamb, quail, and fowl dishes.  Almost any poultry, pork or veal pasta dish, made with or without mushrooms are great pairing partners for this wine.

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A bit more extracted than our 2006 Pinot Noir, but still a classic Pinot Noir. 

Ingredients

Preparation of the Duck

Add 1/4 cup olive oil to a large casserole. Add the carrots, celery, and onion and saute them until the onions are translucent. Add 1/2 the garlic to the casserole pan.  Cook over medium heat until the garlic lightly browns. Add and 1  can Italian plum tomatoes. Cook for 20 minutes. Add the hot pepper flakes and the duck legs and thighs. Cover and cook for 30 minutes. Uncover and cook an additional 30 minutes. Remove the duck from the sauce and let it cool. Save the sauce for another occasion.  It is good, as is, over rigatoni pasta.

Preparing the Duck & Ditali Dish

Separate the duck meat from the bones and chop the meat coarsely. Put the meat into a heavy sauce pan large enough to hold the remaining ingredients. Add olive oil and stir to coat the meat.  Brown the meat for 5 minutes on high heat, then add the remaining garlic and reduce the heat to medium. Cook for an additional 5 minutes.

Add the second can of tomatoes and the chicken stock.  Season to taste with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Add additional hot pepper flakes if  desired. Reduce the heat to low and cook for 30 minutes. At the end of this time add the digital, and stir constantly for the first 5 minutes. Cook for an additional 5-10 minutes. Serve immediately with a lighter red wine.  Our 2006 Pinot Noir is perfect with this dish.

2006 Pinot Noir

This wine is a fruit forward wine, and offers a hint of oak, but much more fruit flavor such as cherries, blackberries and a great mouthfeel with very soft tannins. It offers a very nice, peppery finish. This wine is easy to drink, and accompanies a great many meat and fowl dishes, as well as with seafood meals.  Meals featuring vegetables such as mushrooms and a variety of vegetable dishes also pair well with this wine.

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The way a Pinot Noir should be!

(Adapted from Vincenzo Buonassisi’s PIZZA Plus, English Edition, William Collins & Sons Ltd. 1985.   Original Italian Edition by Gruppo Editoriale Fabbri, S.p.A., Milan, 1982.   ISB 0-00-411202-4)

Ingredients

Starter

Dough

Procedure

Starter

Dissolve the yeast in 1/4 cup of warm water and allow it to stand for approximately 5 -10 minutes. Add the 3/4 cup unbleached all-purpose flour, and mix until the flour is absorbed. Cover the starter with a cotton towel and allow it to remain at room temperature for 1 hour.

Dough

Mix the salt (1 tsp.) with the flour (2 1/4 cup). Add the additional 7/8 to 1 1/4 cups of water to the starter. The water should be at room temperature. Add the flour/salt mixture, and continue to mix the ingredients to the consistency of a soft dough. Knead the dough until it is smooth and elastic.

Divide the dough into 3 portions. Shape each into a ball. Dust a piece of canvas (untreated, 100% cotton), or a proofing board (1/4 inch thick lumber core plywood works well) with flour. Place the 3 portions of dough on the flour dusted surface. Cover with a cotton or linen towel, and allow them to rise until double their original size. this usually takes approximately 1 1/2 – 2 hours.  (Depending upon how soon the dough will be used, the risen portions can be wrapped individually in plastic wrap, placed in a plastic bag, and stored in the refrigerator for several days, or frozen for up to 2 months. If refrigerated or frozen prior to use, allow the portions to come to room temperature before they are rolled out.)

Focaccia is like a thick pizza, but with a more bread-like texture. Usually, it is lightly seasoned and eaten as a snack. It can also be eaten with meals in place of bread. The following recipes produce slightly different focacce. The first is a crisp and chewy focaccia, while the second is flavorful, tender and moist.

Either focaccia can be made in baking pans (as described below), or made into free-form round, square, or rectangular shapes and baked directly on a baking stone. The following recipe(s) make two 9-inch rounds, or one 11 X 17-inch rectangle. The size of the focaccia may be adjusted to accommodate the desired thickness.

Direct Method

Dough

Toppings

Procedure: Dough and Toppings

Dissolve the yeast in 1/4 cup water and allow it to stand for approximately 5-10 minutes. Mix the salt (2 Teaspoons) with the flour (3 3/4 cups). Add the additional water (See Note 1 above) to the dissolved yeast mixture. Add the flour mixture, and mix the ingredients to the consistency of a soft dough. Knead the dough until it is smooth and elastic.

Place the dough in a lightly oiled bowl, cover and allow the dough to rise until it is at least double in size (approximately 1 – 2 hours).   (If desired, the dough may be refrigerated for up to 24 hours.  In this case, shape the dough into a ball, and flatten the ball into a disk.  Place the disk into a plastic bag, and set the plastic bag in the refrigerator.  Remove the plastic bag from the refrigerator approximately 1 1/2 hours prior to baking.  Remove the dough from the plastic bag and allow it to rest covered on the work surface.  When the dough reaches an internal temperature of at least 62°F, proceed with the following instructions.)

Lightly oil the baking pan(s). Place the dough in the center of the baking pan and, using your fingertips, stretch it gently toward the rim of the pan(s). If the dough resists being stretched, allow it to rest in the baking pan for 5-10 minutes, and complete the stretching process.

Allow the dough to rise covered in the baking pan(s) until at least double in size (approximately 45 minutes). Preheat the oven to 425 ° F. If using a baking stone, preheat the oven at least 30 minutes before placing the dough in the oven. Prior to baking, dimple the focaccia by gently pressing into it with your fingertips. Drizzle the surface of the focaccia with extra-virgin olive oil and sprinkle it to taste with salt and rosemary sprigs.

Place the baking pan in the oven and bake the focaccia for 15 to 18 minutes By this time, it should be golden brown in color. Remove the focaccia from the baking pan and cool on a rack. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Indirect Method

Ingredients

Starter

Dough

Toppings

Procedures: Starter, Dough and Toppings

Dissolve the yeast in 1/4 cup water and allow it to stand for approximately 5 -10 minutes. Add the additional water (1-cup) to the dissolved yeast mixture. Add 3/4 cup unbleached all-purpose flour and mix until the flour is absorbed.  Cover the starter, and allow it to remain at room temperature for 30 minutes.

Add 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, the remaining flour (3 cups), and the salt (1 1/2 teaspoons), to the starter (which may have separated). The fresh rosemary leaves may be added to the dough now if one desires to also have this herb in the dough as well as in the topping. Knead the dough, until it is smooth and elastic.

Place the dough in a lightly oiled bowl, cover and allow the dough to rise until it is at least double in size (approximately 1 – 2 hours).  (If desired, the dough may be refrigerated for up to 24 hours.  In this case, shape the dough into a ball, and flatten the ball into a disk.  Place the disk into a plastic bag, and set the plastic bag in the refrigerator.  Remove the plastic bag from the refrigerator approximately 1 1/2 hours prior to baking.  Remove the dough from the plastic bag and allow it to rest covered on the work surface.  When the dough reaches an internal temperature of at least 62°F, proceed with the following instructions.)

Lightly oil the baking pan(s). Place the dough in the center of the baking pan and, using your fingertips, stretch it gently toward the rim of the pan(s). If the dough resists being stretched, allow it to rest in the baking pan for 5-10 minutes, and complete the stretching process.

Allow the dough to rise in the baking pan(s) until at least double in size (approximately 45 minutes). Preheat the oven to 425 ° F. Prior to adding the toppings, dimple the focaccia by gently pressing into it with your fingertips. Drizzle the surface of the focaccia with extra-virgin olive oil and sprinkle it to taste with salt and rosemary leaves.

Place the baking pan(s) in the oven and, using a plant spray bottle, mist the oven walls with cold water. Spray the oven walls again after 5 minutes. Bake the focaccia for 15 to 18 minutes. By this time, it should be golden brown in color. Remove the focaccia from the baking pan(s) and cool on a rack. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Preparation

Sauté the onions in the olive oil and butter for 1-2 minutes, then add the garlic and sauté it together with the onions for another minute or so.  (If a milder flavor is desired substitute shallots for the garlic.)   After 1-2 minutes, add the tarragon to the mixture and cook for another minute. Turn off the heat.

Coat the salmon with a thin film of olive oil and broil for 4 minutes on each side.  Remove from the oven onto a plate.   When cool, cut in to 8-10 pieces.

Bring a pot of water to a boil.  Cook the fettuccine (or any long pasta)  al dente.

Meanwhile, add the tomatoes to the sauté pan and cook them for 1 minute. While the pasta is cooking remove 1 cup of the pasta water from the pot and add it to the pan with the olive oil, tomatoes and tarragon.  Add the pasta, then the salmon and turn the heat to high.  Cook while stirring gently.   As soon as the salmon and the pasta have been amalgamated into the sauce, about 1-2 minutes, turn off the heat and serve immediately on heated plates.

Serve this dish with a Viognier, or if you prefer a Pinot Noir.

2009 Viognier

This wine was made from Northern California fruit of exceptional quality. The acidity is balanced and the alcohol level is 13.5%. That is consequential because many Viognier from the Central Coast exhibit 15%-16% alcohol levels. In our opinion that masks the flavors, and can screw up the acidic a balance of a white wine. (“Screw up” is a scientific term.) Our 2009 Viognier is balanced offers a long finish, and can be served with most chicken, fish appetizers or main dishes.  A white pasta dish is especially good with this wine.

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Preparing the Sauce

Chop the mushrooms into pieces – about 1/2 inch square. Chop the garlic and 1/2 the onion coarsely. Put the mushrooms, garlic, Balsamic vinegar and 1/4 cup of the olive oil into a food processor, and process until a paste is obtained. At this point, the paste should be fairly thick. Slowly add the vegetable or chicken stock. Stop adding the liquid when the mixture is about the consistency of lightly whipped cream. Add the crushed pepper at this point if using same. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Set aside. The sauce may be made ahead and kept refrigerated for a day or so.

Preparing the Lamb Chops

Slice the remaining onion as thin as possible. Place on a flat dish and pour 1/4 cup of olive oil over the onions, making sure to spread it as evenly, salt and pepper the dish and lay the lamb chops on top of the onion/oil layer. Sprinkle 1/2 of the ground mustard seeds over the chops and cover with plastic wrap. Place in a cool spot for 2-3 hours. After this time, uncover the chops and turn them over. Make sure that they are coated with olive oil, and sprinkle this side with mustard seeds. Cover again and let marinate for another 2-3 hours. If you are in a rush, the marinade times can be reduced by half.

Finishing the Dish

Heat two plates in a 250 degree oven for about 10 minutes.

Put the mushroom sauce into a small sauce pan and bring it to a low simmer on the stove. Add the remaining olive oil to a cast iron, or other heavy bottomed pan, and and heat until it just begins to smoke. Tip the pan away from you and add the onions from the marinade the pan. Stir to coat the onions with oil, and after a minute add the lamb chops. Cook on one side for 3-4 minutes, then turn them over. Scrape the onions off the bottom of the pan to keep them from burning. Cook the second side for about 2-4 minutes depending upon the thickness of the chops. They are best when cooked medium rare.

While the chops are cooking on the second side, spoon enough of the mushroom sauce onto the heated plates form a 6-7 inch diameter circle of sauce. As soon as the chops are done, place two onto each plate in the middle of the sauce. Spoon 1/2 of the the onions onto the plate, and serve.

This dish is a wonderful use of lamb and mushrooms. It pairs very well with Pinot Noir!

2007 Pinot Noir

This wine is a 14.35% alcohol, fruit forward wine, and offers a hint of oak, and a bit of spice. Fruit flavor such as cherries, and blackberries coupled to a great mouthfeel, and very soft tannins make this an easy to drink Pinot Noir.  It stands up to flavorful foods like veal, lamb, quail, and other fowl dishes.  Mushroom dishes are great pairing partners for this wine/

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A bit more extracted than our 2006 Pinot Noir, but still a classic Pinot